What to Eat and Buy in Kars: Goose, Kaşar, Gruyère and Honey

The must-tries in Kars in winter are goose, hearty dough dishes such as hangel, and the Kars kaşar and gruyère cheeses that have made the area famous across Türkiye. The first things to go in your suitcase on the way home are cheeses and honey from the region's flower-filled highland pastures. While skiing in Sarıkamış, setting aside time for these flavours on the city tour day is the easiest way to get to know Kars through its food.

Kars cuisine: made for winter

Kars sits on the high, cold plateau of Eastern Anatolia and has long winters. Its cuisine is shaped by this climate: based on livestock farming and enriched with meat, dairy and dough dishes, it is hearty and warming. The region's wide pastures have fostered cattle farming and cheesemaking, while the long winter has brought winter specialities such as goose to the fore.

Must-try dishes

Goose

Goose is the star of the Kars winter table. In the area, geese graze in the pastures all summer, are slaughtered in autumn and, traditionally, are frozen in the cold air and kept through the winter. Goose is usually cooked in a tandır or oven and served with bulgur pilaf. Eating goose at a restaurant in Kars in winter is an experience unique to the region. As goose is a rich, heavy dish, you might choose it for an evening after a ski day or for lunch on the city tour day.

Hangel

Hangel (known locally as hingel) is a dish of boiled pieces of dough topped with yoghurt, butter and sometimes fried onions. It resembles mantı but is plainer, with no filling. It is a simple but filling dish that warms you up after a cold day.

Soups and hot dishes

In Kars, a city of long winters, soup culture is strong. After coming back from the slopes or from Ani, a hot soup is the quickest way to warm up. At restaurants it is always a good idea to ask about the local soup of the day.

Kars cheeses

Kars kaşar

Kars kaşar is foremost among the products that have made the area famous across Türkiye. Made from the milk of animals grazing on the region's pastures, kaşar offers different flavours depending on how long it is aged. Fresh kaşar is soft and mild, while aged kaşar is sharper and more aromatic.

Kars gruyère

Gruyère is another of Kars's signature cheeses. Produced in large wheels and aged for a long time, this cheese is known for the small holes inside it. The history of gruyère production in Kars draws on the cheesemaking know-how of the different communities who settled in the region. Some villages of Kars, especially Boğatepe, are known for their gruyère.

Tips for buying cheese

• Don't hesitate to ask the seller for a taste; cheesemongers usually let you try before you buy.
• Taste the difference between fresh and aged kaşar before choosing.
• As the return journey is by plane, have the cheeses vacuum-packed.
• Pack the cheeses tightly in your suitcase and keep them away from high temperatures.

Caucasian honey

In summer, the high plateaus around Kars are covered in a great variety of flowers. The region is also known for honey produced by Caucasian bees. Flower honey is a frequent choice among souvenirs from Kars. When buying honey, it is best to buy from a trusted seller, and from the producer if possible.

What else makes a good souvenir?

• Hand-knitted woollens: Woollen socks, gloves and hats are useful on a ski holiday and make lovely gifts too.
• Hand-woven kilims and rugs: Examples of Eastern Anatolia's weaving tradition can be found in shops in the city centre.
• Dried herbs and spices: Herbs and thyme gathered on the plateaus make a nice gift for keen cooks.

Local flavours on the Sarıkamış tour

The Kars Sarıkamış Ski Tour is a 3 nights, 4 days programme; on day three, those who wish can visit Ani Archaeological Site and Kars city centre or, if the weather allows, go on a horse-drawn sleigh ride on Lake Çıldır. The city centre visit is a good opportunity to stop at cheese and honey shops and take a break for goose. We finalise the details of meal stops together at the quote stage.

For the day-three trip options, see our Lake Çıldır and Ani winter trip article, and for the skiing side, our Sarıkamış ski guide. All winter options are on our ski holidays page.

Small tips for choosing a restaurant

• Goose is a winter dish; it is a good idea to ask whether the restaurant has it ready that day.
• Busy, everyday restaurants favoured by local people usually prepare local dishes with more care.
• For breakfast, a table with local cheeses, honey and butter is the warmest way to start the day.
• In Kars, tea is part of conversation; don't forget to take a tea break during your city tour.

Frequently asked questions

What is Kars's famous dish?

Kars's best-known dish is goose; it is usually cooked in a tandır or oven and served with bulgur pilaf. Hangel is also one of the area's best-loved home-cooked dishes.

What should I buy in Kars?

The most popular choices are Kars kaşar, Kars gruyère and honey from the region's flower-filled plateaus. Hand-knitted woollen socks and gloves also make nice gifts.

What is the difference between Kars kaşar and gruyère?

Kaşar is the most common cheese in Kars; it is eaten fresh or aged. Gruyère is produced in large wheels, aged for a long time and known for the small holes inside it.

How do I carry cheese on a plane?

Having the cheese vacuum-packed and packing it tightly in your suitcase is a good method. We recommend checking the airline's baggage rules before you travel.