International · Kazbegi
Kazbegi and Gergeti Church: A Mountain Day on the Georgian Military Road
Kazbegi is a mountain town near the end of the Georgian Military Road, which runs north from Tbilisi towards the Caucasus Mountains, and its real fame comes from Gergeti Trinity Church, standing alone in front of snowy Mount Kazbek. Along the way, valleys, passes and mountain views follow one after another, so the journey itself is part of the trip. As the weather in the mountains changes quickly, you need to dress in layers whatever the season.
What is the Georgian Military Road?
The Georgian Military Road is a historic route connecting Tbilisi northwards across the Caucasus Mountains. Used for centuries by merchants, armies and travellers, the road is known today as one of Georgia's most scenic highways. This part of the Caucasus is often described in the works of Russian writers such as Pushkin and Lermontov.
The road climbs following the valley of the Aragvi River; wooded slopes gradually give way to bare mountain meadows and rocky peaks. After the pass at the highest part of the road, you descend into the valley of the Terek (Tergi) River and reach Kazbegi.
Gudauri
Gudauri, on the way, is one of Georgia's best-known ski resorts. In winter, snow and slopes take centre stage; in summer, green hillsides and wide mountain views. On this culture and nature route, Gudauri is not a ski stop but a scenic waypoint on the journey through the mountains. From the viewpoints around Gudauri you can take in the depth of the valley.
Kazbegi (Stepantsminda)
The town's official name is Stepantsminda; however, the name Kazbegi is widely used by both locals and travellers. The name comes from Aleksandre Kazbegi, the Georgian writer closely associated with the area. The small town is a quiet mountain settlement in the shadow of the surrounding peaks.
Mount Kazbek, rising above the town, is one of the best-known peaks of the Caucasus. Its summit is covered in snow for most of the year. In Georgian mythology, Amirani, who brought fire to humankind (much like Prometheus in Greek mythology), is said to have been chained to this mountain.
Gergeti Trinity Church
On the hill opposite the town of Kazbegi stands Gergeti Trinity (Tsminda Sameba) Church, generally believed to date from around the 14th century. Mount Kazbek in the background, the stone church in front and empty green slopes around it: this is one of the most photographed views in Georgia.
The church is reached by a road or a footpath leading up from the town. The footpath is steep and requires a good level of fitness. On the tour, how you go up to the church is decided with your guide according to the weather and road conditions on the day. The church is still in use for worship; when going inside, women are expected to cover their heads and wear a skirt, and men to wear long trousers.
Preparing for the mountain day
In the mountains it can be noticeably cooler than in Tbilisi, and the weather can change quickly during the day. Even in midsummer, have these with you:
- A windproof jacket with a hood
- A fleece or a thick mid-layer
- Walking shoes with non-slip soles
- Sunglasses and sunscreen (the sun is stronger at altitude)
- A hat and light gloves, especially in spring and autumn
- Water and snacks, as stops along the way may be limited
If you are prone to travel sickness on winding mountain roads, take precautions in advance. In winter and between seasons, snow and ice can affect road conditions; in that case the day's schedule is adjusted with safety as the priority.
How does this day fit into the tour?
Georgia Tour: Tbilisi, Mtskheta and Kazbegi is a 3 nights, 4 days programme with hotel accommodation. On the morning of day two you visit Jvari Monastery and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the old capital, Mtskheta; then you head up the Georgian Military Road to Gudauri and Kazbegi and see Gergeti Trinity Church. In the evening you return to Tbilisi. This tour is a new programme not included in the catalogue.
For Mtskheta, which makes up the first half of the day, see our Mtskheta guide, and for the season and what to wear, our Georgia trip practical information article.
Small notes on photos and views
As the mountain day is a long one, we recommend having a good breakfast before leaving the hotel in the morning. Picking up a hot drink or a local snack at rest stops along the way makes the day more enjoyable.
Mount Kazbek, behind Gergeti Trinity Church, is sometimes completely clear and sometimes completely hidden, depending on the clouds. If the summit is in cloud, waiting a few minutes sometimes reveals the view; but you also have to accept that the mountain may keep you waiting. To get the church and the mountain in the same frame, just move a little away from the church across the meadow in front of it. Sitting on the window side of the coach along the way makes it easier to enjoy the views of the valleys and the pass. At altitude the sunlight is harsh; sunglasses protect your eyes and make it more comfortable to look at the snowy peaks. Phone batteries can drain faster in mountain air; keep a power bank with you.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit Kazbegi as a day trip from Tbilisi?
Yes. On the tour programme, Mtskheta, Gudauri and Kazbegi are all visited on the same day and you return to Tbilisi in the evening. It is a long day with plenty of driving, so an early start is needed.
Can you walk up to Gergeti Trinity Church?
There is a hiking trail from the town up to the church, but it is steep and tiring. How you get up to the church on the programme is confirmed with the guide, depending on weather and road conditions.
Are Kazbegi and Stepantsminda the same place?
Yes. The town's official name is Stepantsminda; the name Kazbegi comes from the writer Alexander Kazbegi and is still widely used.
What should I wear for Kazbegi?
Whatever the season, bring a windproof jacket, a mid layer and non-slip shoes. In the mountains it can be cooler than in Tbilisi, and the weather can change quickly during the day.
